Ugali is what feeds Kenya. It’s white cornmeal cooked stiff enough to cut with a knife, served alongside something braised — usually sukuma wiki, which translates as “stretch the week.” The greens are cheap, plentiful, and feed a family.
Ingredients
For the ugali
- 3 cups water
- 2 cups white cornmeal (Pembe or Jogoo brand if available; coarse cornmeal works)
- 1 tsp salt
For the sukuma wiki
- 1 bunch collard greens or kale (about 1 lb), washed and chopped fine
- 1 large onion, diced
- 2 medium tomatoes, diced
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tbsp vegetable oil
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp turmeric
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 1/4 cup water or stock
Method
For the sukuma wiki
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook 5 minutes until softened and starting to brown at the edges.
Add garlic, cumin, and turmeric. Stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.
Add diced tomatoes. Cook 4-5 minutes until they break down into a rough sauce.
Add chopped greens in batches if needed. Stir to coat in the tomato base. Add water or stock, salt, and pepper.
Cover and cook 8-10 minutes, stirring once or twice, until greens are tender but still bright green. Finish with lemon juice. Taste and adjust salt.
For the ugali
Bring water to a boil in a heavy pot. Add salt.
Lower heat to medium. Gradually whisk in cornmeal, a little at a time, stirring constantly to prevent lumps.
Once all cornmeal is in, switch to a sturdy wooden spoon. Stir continuously for 8-10 minutes as the mixture thickens dramatically and pulls away from the sides of the pot.
When the ugali holds its shape and the spoon stands straight up unsupported, it’s done.
Press into a greased bowl, then invert onto a plate. Slice with a knife or break off pieces by hand.
Eat by tearing off a chunk of ugali with your right hand, pressing a thumbprint into it, and using it to scoop the sukuma wiki. No utensils needed — the ugali is the utensil.