Belizean Rice and Beans with Stew Chicken

In Belize, this is THE plate. Not a plate — the plate. If you ask a Belizean what to make for someone who has never had Belizean food, this is the answer. Rice and beans cooked together (not rice WITH beans, which is a different dish), stew chicken so dark it looks burnt to the uninitiated, and fried plantain to balance the salt and richness.

Ingredients

For the rice and beans

• 1 cup dried red kidney beans (soaked overnight)
• 4 cups water
• 1 cup coconut milk
• 1 onion, diced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 sprig fresh thyme
• 1 scotch bonnet pepper (whole, do not break)
• 2 tsp salt
• 2 cups long-grain rice, rinsed

For the stew chicken

• 2 lbs chicken pieces (drumsticks and thighs preferred)
• 2 tbsp brown sugar
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 onion, sliced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 thumb-sized piece ginger, grated
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 tbsp recado rojo (Belizean red seasoning) or 1 tbsp paprika + 1/2 tsp annatto
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 1 sprig thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and pepper to taste

For serving

• 2 ripe plantains, sliced and fried in oil until golden

Method

For the rice and beans

1. Drain the soaked beans. Place in a heavy pot with water, coconut milk, half the onion, half the garlic, thyme, the whole scotch bonnet, and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 45-60 minutes until beans are tender but not mushy.

2. Remove the scotch bonnet carefully (do not break it). Add the rice and remaining 1 tsp salt. Stir once. Cover tightly and reduce heat to lowest setting. Cook 25 minutes without lifting the lid.

3. Rest covered 10 minutes off the heat, then fluff with a fork. The grains should be separate, with the beans evenly distributed and the rice tinted pink-brown from the bean liquid.

For the stew chicken

1. Season chicken with salt, pepper, garlic, and ginger. Let marinate 15 minutes.

2. Heat oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add brown sugar and let it dissolve and turn deep mahogany — almost black — about 3 minutes. Do not burn it.

3. Quickly add the chicken pieces. They will hiss and the sugar will coat them dark brown. Sear all sides, about 5 minutes.

4. Add onion. Cook 3 minutes. Add tomato paste, recado rojo, soy sauce, and Worcestershire. Stir to coat.

5. Add chicken stock, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer. Cover and cook 30-40 minutes until chicken is tender and the sauce has thickened to a rich gravy.

6. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.

Serve a generous mound of rice and beans, two pieces of chicken with plenty of gravy, and 3-4 slices of fried plantain. A small cabbage salad on the side is traditional but optional.

The browning of the sugar for the chicken is the moment that defines the dish. Too pale, and the gravy lacks depth. Too dark, and it tastes bitter. Watch it carefully.